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So
let's get started by looking in the back of the newly acquired
Bush.
Everything
looks pretty untouched and the chassis is only lightly corroded.
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Unlike
in its bakelite 9-inch TV22 cousin, the front controls are mounted
on separate bearers, which first must be dismounted.
First
the knob locking screws are loosened through the access holes
provided. A peep first to see what you're doing with a good torch
and pair of glasses is recommended!
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Then
the mounting plate bearing screws (at each end) are removed. |
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Out
comes one of the control bearers!
Note
the TV22-style knob pre-fixed to the timebase hold pot.
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A messy
arrangement involving sellotape has been used in the past to join
the speaker leads.
On
the TV24, the speaker mounts to the cabinet, not the chassis,
so it has to be disconnected.
The
leads are now unceremoniously snipped.
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Still
looking underneath the set... here is one of the two front chassis
mounting screws with its washer. These are removed next. |
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Looking
in the back now, we see one of the two connections bonding the
chassis to the cabinet's internal screening foil.
These
are unscrewed.
Note
also the 2BA nut at upper left...
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This
mounts the chassis to the cabinet at the rear. A nutspinner goes
on to this to remove it. There is another the other side too. |
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The
chassis can now be dislodged and carefully withdrawn from the
cabinet.
But
steady on! The tube is not located properly at the front in the
TV24 once it's removed from the cabinet. It is simply pulled back
against the curved wood mounting with all the strain being borne
by the clamp around the tube's neck!
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Without
further ado, the tube is removed out of harm's way... allowing
us to look at the space now left.
All
appears in pretty fair order for an unrestored set.
The
line output transformer, on the right, looks clean, tho' it hasn't
been tested yet.
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Here's
the tube, placed on its front, with the scan coils still fitted.
These
plug in to sockets on the chassis. For ease of future reassembly
a photo was taken of these connections before they were unplugged.
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With
care, the scan coils lift off quite easily once a little WD40
has been squirted down their interface with the tube neck.
Sometimes
it is necessary to pass some DC current through the coils to warm
up the wax before they can be loosened, but not in this case.
Here
the area round the EHT button is being cleaned.
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The
tube is now tested. After a gradual start, the emission rises to
'very good', and there appear to be no inter-electrode leaks. Good
news! |
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It's
time to remove accessible parts from the chassis, to facilitate
cleaning.
The
focus magnet assembly comes off after undoing two screws.
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Only
one screw needs to be undone to remove the safety shield behind
the line output section. |
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Here's
what then is revealed... left to right, the three valves we see
are the HT Rectifier, the Line Output, and the Boost Rectifier.
Unlike
in the earlier editions of this chassis, these are now 'miniature'
mid-fifties types.
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The
line output transformer is incredibly easy to remove on this particular
set. There are just two connections that are secured by screws,
pointed out in the picture. The transformer then pivots at the rear
and lifts straight off. |
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Not
such good news. This set has been used in the past on the 220/210
volt mains setting... presumably to eke some extra 'life' out
of the performance. We may therefore later expect to see some
well-worn valves.
The
multipole connector to the lower RF/IF deck appears not to have
been touched since 1953... good news really. It is stuck. So now
it requires levering off by gently twisting back and forth two
screwdrivers. Care is required here or the paxolin can be damaged.
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